Foreigner Foodies - Day 2 - Royal Court foods

On Sunday the skies blew clear and the air was crisp. Armed with the previous night’s resolution and a good long sleep I arrived at the production offices (ever our starting point), spot on 12:30, with a renewed sense of enthusiasm. My optimism was charged with the knowledge that today all the filming would take place inside a single location.

         We vanned across Seoul for half an hour before arriving at a very impressive apartment complex and parking in the basement lot. The home we would be visiting belonged to an elderly woman who, if I remember, was on a council for traditional court foods. At any rate she owned and ran a very successful restaurant serving those same foods that would have been eaten by kings and emperors. The dish we were going to be making is called 탕평채 (Tangpyeongchae).

         While in the basement waiting for other cast and crew members to arrive (Nobuko arrived separately, and the crew members seem perpetually engaged elsewhere), the producer gathered us around and told us that we needed to do more “overacting”.

         We were filmed approaching the apartment complex (walking very slowly) and conversing unnaturally, all five abreast walking toward a double door: A sudden crush of bodies; we’ll fix it in post.

         After being introduced to our host, we were filmed being introduced to our host. Nabuko gave some greeting and words appropriate to the occasion, and we all genuinely appreciated the superb view south out of their window. This was by far the nicest apartment in Korea I have ever been in – it was massive, the kitchen was large enough to have an island in the middle, and the view over the mountains was amazing.

Leigh models his puffy coat between two puffy cameramen.

         Some concern between our host and production crew meant some minutes of conversation before it was decided that we would move to the restaurant to film. We packed up some food, shucked our coats back on, and loaded into the vans. The drive to the restaurant was short, but the subsequent wait to go in was long. After half an hour the camera crew emerged to declare that the restaurant kitchen was not the right place for filming, and so we were off back to the apartment.

         Cooking the meal was good fun. The kitchen was cramped with more than 10 people in it, but there was lots of chopping and stirring and straining to be done, and plenty of opportunities to “sneak” a taste of little bits of food – in front of the camera.

Slicing and dicing.

David showing off his knife skills.

Cindy julienning the shitaki mushrooms.

I take instruction on even segmenting.

David receives a mouthful he cannot refuse.

잡체 Jabche

In Korean, 선맛 (hand flavour), doesn't sound as gross as in the English. 

        Our host was delightful, and full of praise. She enjoyed force feeding us from her chopsticks, and showing us the different techniques for slicing mushrooms and cucumber extra thin.

         I found that in not seeking attention or overblown statements, I enjoyed myself far more, and it became a lot easier to loosen up and relax. Toward the end of cooking I was feeling genuinely comradely toward my fellow cast-members, a feeling missing the day before, which sensation only grew as we ate and chatted after the meal.

         The food was superb: In hindsight the best food we ate on the show. In addition to tangpyeongchae we also made japchae, which was already a long-time favorite of mine. The side-dishes (방찬) were likewise of the highest quality and I ate myself absolutely silly.

Taepyeongche (태평체), royal cuisine.

Jabche, just as delicious.

Kkakdugi, my favourite "kimchi"

Kimchi kimchi.

Mung bean porridge. A cleansing starter.

The table grows heavy.

This kitchen isn't quite as well equipped. (Though it does have an oven, making it rare in Korea)

         This whole day was far simpler and less involved than the previous one, and I felt entirely different on the way home from it than I had the previous night. Despite the waiting, and the back and forthness, it was very enjoyable, we got to eat good food, and generally explore a new side of Korea.

         Now I had only to get some sleep before going to work the next day…